While I am not a surfer dude, I knew that I would be visiting the beaches of Baler sooner than later. The need to see it is probably due to the image of that huge wave in the original Hawaii Five-O I remember watching as a child. Or maybe it is because I just needed some far-off place to visit and Baler fit the bill perfectly.
So, when a long vacation presented itself, I naturally thought of giving my best friend Winefredo Rodriguez a call for the long drive to Sabang Beach. Apart from being quite far, it is said to be one of the places in the Philippines where surfer dudes and dudettes can catch a wave as high as 2.7 meters, or 9 feet high.
Table of Contents
The Wrong Ground Route
If you take the correct route, it should take about 6 hours or less to get from Metro Manila to Baler. And when I say correct path, I mean going through the Pantabanganan-Canili-Basal-Baler Road.
The problem we faced for this trip was that the directions we gathered, even the one from Google Maps, were all in reverse. Looking at something from Baler to Metro Manila made it rather difficult to interpret.
Take an Alternate Route
You probably are wondering why we had a hard time reading the map, since all we had to do was walk through things backwards. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the only problem. It turns out that we were hobbled with a map that wasn’t updated or detailed enough so we got lost pretty quickly.
Asking for directions did help us for certain stretches of road, but we had the misfortune of talking to someone who wasn’t as familiar with the best route for the second half of our trip. And this led us through the worst possible route there.
Calling the road rough is a gross understatement. Even a serious 4×4 will get its tires and suspension a serious workout through the path we took. And if a driver isn’t careful, even high clearance vehicles could end up getting their undercarriages scraped.
To give you an idea of what we had to go through, the road was so narrow, only for one vehicle could pass. The hills were very steep and close to the edge, which could make a mistake fatal. Most of the road had huge rocks that could crack wheels or wreck suspension systems. Then there was the heavy rain that made everything muddy and slick.
We also had to contend with heavy equipment as the road was being worked on at several points. We had to wait a couple of times for graders to finish spreading soil in order to flatten the road. And at one point, we had to wait for an excavator to finish before the road was safe enough to pass.
[I wasn’t able to take pictures because of too much mud and rain.]
And since taking the Bingabon route can tack on as much as 3 hours to your trip, expect your bottom to take the shape of the seat it is resting on.
So, do not, under any circumstance, take the Bingabon route to Baler in Aurora, Quezon as of this writing. If you see the Bingabon Arch, turn back immediately and take another route, even if it seems longer. You, your passengers, and your vehicle will be thankful for it.
The Right Ground Route
The route we should have taken was:
- If you are coming from Metro Manila, take the North Luzon Expressway, or NLEX.
- At the end, you need to get on the Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway, or SCTex.
- Get on Tarlac Road.
- After seeing a Flying V gas station on the left, you will need to get on the Carmen-Cabanatuan Road.
- After passing an F1 gas station on the left, you will need to get on the Felipe-Vergara Hi-way.
- Take a left to the Pan-Philippine Hi-way.
- After this, take a right to the Pinapanaan-Rizal-Pantabangan Road.
- Get on to Agaran Street.
- Take the Pantabanganan-Canili-Basal-Baler Road.
- Keep going and you should pass the Pantabanganan Public Market on your right.
- Keep going and you should pass a Petron gasoline station on your right.
- Keep going and you should pass the Weslayan University of the Philippines on your left.
- Take the Nueva Ecija-Aurora Road.
- Take Button Street.
- Sabang Beach should be at the end of this road.
Make sure you have a full tank of gas because you might have to double back after talking a wrong turn or two. The problem is that you may realize the mistake way down the road where there are no gasoline stations in sight.
Rough Road
[There were no gasoline stations along most of the Bingabon route.]
Getting back to Metro Manila from Baler isn’t much of a problem because there are a lot of road signs to point you in the right direction. However, I still suggest making sure you have enough fuel for possible diversions or for heavy traffic.
Done correctly, you should be in Baler anywhere between 5 to 6 hours. The difference will depend on your speed and traffic conditions. It will also be affected by the length of your stops for bathroom breaks and possible roadside purchases.
The Alternative Routes
On one hand, you can save yourself the trouble of driving and getting lost by taking a flight from the Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Metro Manila to the Dr. Juan C. Angara Airport in Baler. The 45-minute trip is provided by a 19-seater plane and is the fastest way to get to Baler.
[You might need to check if the plane can accommodate any equipment you plan on bringing.]
On the other hand, the cheapest way to get there would be to take a bus. I understand that the trip takes around 6 hours, including pit stops.
[Not sure if taking a surfboard is a good idea this way though.]
The Brief Background
Baler was established as a small settlement by the Spanish back in the year 1609, making it the oldest in the province. Over the centuries, the settlement grew to become the capital of the Aurora province.
Surfboards
One of the most famous historical occurrences involved the Seige of Baler, wherein Spanish soldiers refused to cede the area after independence was declared by the Philippines. When the garrison surrendered on June 2, 1899, it marked the final time Spain ruled over the country.
[The 337-day Seige of Baler was immortalized in a 2008 film called Baler.]
Today, Baler is known around the world as one of the best surfing spots in the Philippines. With waves reaching as high as 2.7 meters, or 9 feet, surfers from all over the world flock to this small quiet town.
The Beach
Sabang Beach is the only place I know that has the longest beach-front walkway in the country. The other walkways I have seen, such as the one of Vistamar Hotel and County Club, only partially covered the front of one resort or hotel. The walkway at Sabang Beach stretched several hundred meters to cover several competing places, making it very convenient to stroll.
Beach
When it comes to privacy, the beach is a very good candidate because the sea shore is long and wide. So no matter how many people are visiting the beach, it seems impossible to ever feel crowded.
However, if you are used to the white beaches of Boracay, Palawan, Bohol, or even places like Canyon Cove, Dubay Panglao, or Stilts, you may be slightly surprised because the sand at Sabang Beach is quite different.
[Surfing is the main draw after all, not the sand.]
Unlike its lighter counterparts, the sand here is gray and slightly fine. The color and the texture, together with the burning sun, means that it can get quite hot at noon. So if you don’t want to be hopping around like a person on hot coals, I suggest wearing a pair of slippers or Aqua Shoes when taking a stroll on the beach.
The Surf
I mentioned earlier that I’m not a surfer dude so I can’t really tell if the waves were great surf-wise. What I can say is that they were bigger than what I am used to, which is why I opted to use the swimming pool instead of the beach.
Beach
[The waves were tossing people around.]
And while that may not sound good for the occasional beach comber, it is good news for the surfboards riding the waves. During stay, it looked like there were more people surfing than there were frolicking in the water. And from the look on their many faces, the surfers appeared to be enjoying themselves because they kept going even under the burning sun of high noon.
The additional good news for surfers is the absence of noisy jet skis and powerboats. And since I understand that there are no sharks either, the only thing that surfers have to worry about is wiping out too soon.
Based on the Surfing Philippines website, the waves in Baler are best during the months of October and April, with their highest peaks between December and January. Sabang Beach is rated for surfers from the Beginner to the Intermediate levels. More advanced surfers can visit the surrounding beaches of Cemento Beach, Lindy’s Point, and Charlie’s Point where the movie Apocalypse Now was filmed.
The Sky
Of all the bodies of water I have visited, Sabang Beach probably has the bluest skies I have ever seen. Before this place, I never realized that skies could be that blue without the use of sun glasses.
Walkway
[It was totally different from the storm the previous day.]
However, don’t let that wonderful blue sky lull you into a false sense of security. Anything that blue and bright can burn the skin. So if you plan on surfing, swimming, or even walking around, make sure to slather on a healthy amount of sun block.
I was only out for a few hours taking pictures and I ended up getting burned.
[I was red as a beet when I got home.]
The Accommodations
Room sizes range from a tiny one bedroom small enough to fit a person and his luggage to a room that can fit an entire family. Overnight room rates were as low as PhP 1,000 for just the room or go over PhP 16,000 for one with a free buffet breakfast.
Restaurant
However, during 3-day or longer holidays, the less expensive beachfront rooms can be unavailable if you didn’t book in advance. If this happens, and you are not too picky, try checking out the hotels or lodges near the municipal building. A comfortable room with air conditioning and your own bathroom should net something like PhP 1,800.
When it comes to traveling, some people may find it too far to walk. If you prefer to save your energy, a one-way tricycle ride to or from the beach costs PhP 12 per person.
Food
The food also has multiple price points, with a budget meal composed of rice and a main dish costing as little as PhP 50. Simple as it was, the Giniling, or ground meat, that we ordered wasn’t bad.
[We even went back for breakfast before heading out.]
But if you want an all-out buffet, then expect to part with PhP 750 per person for a place like Costa Pacifica. The menu one can expect will cover everything from comfort food to dishes a bit more on the exotic side.
Sabang Beach also has a number of shops that offer souvenirs, equipment rentals, and surfboard lessons so you don’t have to carry your own stuff. The cost of renting a board is about PhP 200 per hour.
For those who haven’t tried surfing yet, one place we inquired at offered 1-hour surfing lessons for PhP 350.
Final Thoughts
Now, before you take this article as a resounding endorsement to drive up the North-East roads to Baler, hold your horses – Sabang Beach is not for everyone.
Surfboards
The drive to Baler, whether it is through the right or wrong route, is a long and exhausting one. So before investing that much time and effort, it is best to establish whether this beach is for you.
[You might set the wrong expectations if you don’t do this.]
If you are the type who wants to play in the sand or frolic in the water, you may wish to consider places in Boracay, Palawan, Bohol because of their calmer waters. And while the Diguisit Rock Formations are a much, much larger version of the picturesque ones found in the Treasures of Bolinao, they may not be enough to make up for the long trip to the amateur photographer.
But if you are the type of person who wants to know how it feels to hang ten while being around others who are passionate about the sport, then Sabang Beach, as well as the surrounding ones in Baler, may be the place for you.
Must Do’s
- Download maps and directions leaving.
- Ask for directions along the way.
- Bring a pair of Aqua Shoes or slippers as the sand can get hot during the day.
- Apply a generous amount of sunblock.
- Check around the main part of town if you are looking for less expensive accommodations.
- Visit the Diguisit Rock Formations for some interesting pictures.
- Check out more pictures at the Sabang Beach Gallery at Crazy About Pictures.
Must Don’ts
- Avoid the Bingabon route.
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