Unlike previous trips to Vigan, we were coming from Fort Ilocandia instead of Manila this time. Being only two hours away meant we had a lot more time to spare at this old city. Instead of walking or taking our car with us, we decided to hire a Calesa to take us around.
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Different Mode of Transportation
While I have been to Vigan several times in the past, it was only on my first visit that I was able to ride the Calesa. And the main reason I was able to do this was I stayed for several days, giving me enough spare time for to enjoy the slow ride.
Calesa
It was the lack of time that prevented me from riding the Calesa when I took my wife over for a visit. I reasoned that we could move much faster with the car, we used it going to places Baluarte back then.
The problem is that I am not from Vigan and am not familiar with the good places to visit. In addition to this, I admit not being familiar with the history of the places I have visited.
This is where riding a Calesa comes in. Being from Vigan, the Cuchero, or driver, knows the ins and outs of the place; knows the best spots patronized by the locals. And since many Cucheros are also trained in the history the various tourist spots, they are some of the best resources for local knowledge.
[They are also great sources of information not found in the history books.]
Since we arrived early, having just traveled 2 hours from Fort Ilocandia, I thought it was high time to take the Calesa and see the real Vigan.
Misunderstanding the Rates
The discussion of rates is the one of the areas where confusion exists in Vigan. Even I was surprised at the rates charged by the Cuchero we hired. I misunderstood PhP 150 to be a packaged tour as it turned out to be the official rate they charge per hour.
Calesa
Now before you pick up an ancient sword and cry foul, the problem appears to be a simple one – miscommunication traced to different cultures. Even I am not immune to this because I often find myself encountering cultural differences when visiting places around the country.
[The Philippines is so diverse that even towns right beside each other can have different cultures.]
While I won’t go through the long process of explaining the how’s and why’s behind any misunderstanding on rates, I will say this – the Cucheros in Vigan are not out to rip off tourists by overcharging them.
And the reason they will not do this is because tourists can complain about them. And if a Cuchero is found guilty, it is possible to get his license to operate suspended or, in the worst case scenario, cancelled.
On the other hand, if the tourist is the one found guilty of abuse, well, let’s just say that there are laws that apply to everyone, including abusive tourists.
Cuchero Expenses
Cuchero
Our Cuchero, Carlito Butay, gave us a rundown of the expenses Cucheros face in order to ply the streets of Vigan. It starts with the rental of the horse and Calesa, or horse-drawn carriage, for PhP 200 a day. Horse feed, which is divided in to two meals, then needs to be purchased at about PhP 100 per day.
[The rental also includes the franchise fee.]
Then a Cuchero needs to take care of the horse he rents, which translates into additional time and money on his part.
Given these expenses, it is not difficult to see that charging PhP 150 for a packaged tour taking at least 4 hours is impossible to live on. Remember, a Cuchero will most likely have a family to feed and kids to send to school. Factor in medical and other expenses, and it becomes a matter of survival that he charge
Official Rate
Calesa
Let’s try to put things in a different perspective; apart from being honest, a Cuchero plying the streets of Vigan will most likely not risk his livelihood for just a few bucks because his entire family will literally go hungry in a single day.
So the next time you hire a Cuchero to take you around in his Calesa, keep in mind that the official rate is currently pegged at PhP 150 per hour. Hopefully, this should banish any misunderstanding on rates and allow you to focus on enjoying your vacation.
Places to Visit
A row of Calesas
Two of the benefits of taking the Calesa is that we avoid having to go through some of the narrow streets and skip the hassle of looking for parking in Vigan, especially when the place is full of tourists.
Sure, getting pulled by a horse may be slower than a 125-horsepower vehicle, but one doesn’t really need much horsepower to get around the city.
[One horsepower is more than enough for this place.]
Some of the places that Cucheros recommend include the following:
- Baluarte – an 80 hectare property where some of the zoo animals can roam freely.
- The Bantay Bell Tower – built in 1591, it was also used to keep an eye out for pirates during Spanish times.
- Burnay Pottery – the place to buy the world-famous hand crafted Vigan Jars.
- Crisologo Museum – the home of the Crosologo Family that was converted to a museum.
- Hidden Garden – a 1.5 hectare area that sells plants and has a restaurant.
- Irene’s Empanada – one of the must-try places for Vigan-style empanada.
- Plaza Salcedo – the plaza in the middle of Vigan that has fountain show starting at 7:00 in the evening.
- Rowilda’s Handloom Weaving – One of several places that creates hand-woven materials.
- Saint Paul’s Cathedral – Baroque church built in 1574.
- Syquia Mansion – the home of the wife of former President Elpidio Quirino that was converted to a museum.
- Tongson’s Royal Bibingka – considered to be the original Bibingka place in Vigan.
It will take about 5 or 6 hours to comfortably visit all of these sites; longer if you decide to linger for pictures in places like Baluarte, Crisologo Museum, and the Syquia Mansion.
Incidentally, it may help to select the places you want to visit and give a time limit for any Calesa tours. This way, the Cuchero can map out the ideal routes in order to stay within your schedule.
[This is helpful if you plan on checking out of your hotel at a certain time.]
Don’t worry if I haven’t covered them in this article as I will be tackling most of them in succeeding ones.
Final Thoughts
Ah, Vigan. The old city that never seems to age. To me, it is almost exactly the same today as it was on my first visit decades ago.
[Well, there were fewer people back then.]
Calesa
If you have at least a day to spend in this centuries’ old city, taking the Calesa is one of the best ways to visit the real Vigan. Not to mention, you also get to see some of the places the locals patronize themselves.
And while taking a car will definitely be faster and cooler, having a Cuchero take you around with his trusty steed means you can learn a thing or two about the places you will be seeing.
And since there are hardly any Calesas left in the world, taking one in this old city is something everyone needs to experience at least once in their lifetime.
Finally, to help minimize any misunderstanding, discuss what places you want to visit and how much time you have to spare with your Cuchero before hiring him. This way, he can select the best routes to better manage your time.
Must Do’s
- If you get dizzy with the rocking motion, try leaning forward so your back doesn’t rest on the seat.
- Plan out the places you want to see with Cuchero before starting.
Inform the Cuchero if you have a schedule to keep, such as the time you plan on checking out. - Be careful getting in and out of the Calesa.
Must Don’ts
- Do not annoy the horse.
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